Location: Camp 2
Local Time: 17:45, May 6
Weather: Fine all day. max 6C
Hi It’s Paul here,
Today we woke up at 5am, got ready and left camp 1 for camp 2 at 6:20am. The plan was to beat the heat of the day. We are climbing much faster now, and 2 hours and 40 minutes later we pulled into camp 2. The sun only hit us at about 8:30, so we timed it pretty well right. We were able to join Dennis, Jim & Jack who were already at camp 2 for their breakfast. We are really pleased to be climbing much faster as it’s proof of our acclimatisation.
Testing sock combinations
I tried a slightly different sock combination today. I have been using a plastic bag between my liner and thick sock to stop any sweat getting into the thick, warm sock. The plastic bag is a bit annoying, because it makes my outer sock slip around. My feet were noticeably cooler this morning, so I am going to have to try to work out a way to stop my socks from moving around so much.
We are going to rest here tomorrow, and then climb up to camp 3 the next day. After sleeping the night we will hopefully climb up towards the yellow band on oxygen, to test it out. We will then return to camp 2 and go down to base camp the day after.
Other IMG climbers
Jim and Jack are going up to C3 tomorrow, Dennis will go up to C3 the day after with us. We haven’t heard of Dan’s plans, but I presume he will be coming up to C2 sometime soon. Brenda was going to camp 2 yesterday, but she didn’t feel well and turned around at camp 1. She said she was still recovering from a cold and felt that a few more days in bc would do her good.
We heard from Mary this afternoon that she is at the Eco Lodge in Lobuche, suffering from a mild headache. However, she was very excited because she is going to have her first shower in many days. At US$18 per night, the Eco Lodge is one of the more expensive lodges on the trek into base camp, but it’s really nice and the food is fantastic. Highly recommend the pizza! I am not sure of her plans, but I imagine she might rest there a day and then head up to Gorak Shep, before going to base camp.
From Dennis Kellner
Hi it’s Dennis here. I am currently returning from my own man made hell. I climbed straight from basecamp to camp 2 in one day. It took me about 8 hours and the last 2 hours were pure agony.
First of all I did not take care of myself (rule number one). I should have drank twice as much water as I brought along. I should also have eaten more and consequently I paid the price.
The way from camp 1 to camp 2 is basically a steady uphill climb which takes us through the Cwm, a saddle between 2 mountains. This valley like area is snow covered so it turns into an oven when there is no wind and a clear blue sky, just like yesterday. Paul measured the temp at a little over a 100 degrees F. With the addition of the reflection off of the snow it becomes a veritable oven. So in addition to not taking care of myself the weather was perfect for getting a tan. With about half of the oxygen available to us at sea level walking uphill with heavy boots, a 30 lb. pack and all of the clothes you would normally wear up at 20,000 feet and not taking care of myself it was a recipe for trouble. Luckily I made it with no other side effects other than being completely spent upon arrival at camp 2.
I had planned to take 1 rest day before moving up to camp 3 but there are enough usable brain cells up in the old bucket so I am going to take two rest days. That will put me on the same schedule as Paul and Fiona. So we plan to go up to camp 3 on Monday and spend the night there. Tuesday we plan to take a little walk towards camp four to get used to using our masks and oxygen. Then we plan to come down to camp 2 and on Wednesday back to basecamp.
As of today it looks like we will not have the infrastructure to attempt a summit for 10 or 11 days. At that time we must wait for a good weather window. So the chances of an early summit are not looking real good today. The talk lately is turning more and more of home so we are eagerly anticipating to be able to summit as soon as possible. It appears we all will be sitting around basecamp waiting for the first opportunity to attempt a summit. I know for me and I suspect for most of us it can not come too soon.
Thankyou everyone that is following this site and your posts to us. Everyone of us look forward to hearing from you. It’s a little bit of home for us. It is sort of like when GIs get mail from home. Tam I love you and miss you terribly and I am eager to get this thing done and get home to you.
Thanks everyone for putting your state and country after the message. Sure makes for interesting reading over here on Everest.
Hi Christy, Fiona here. How do I keep my strength up and cope with the cold? We trained solidly for 2 years for this, so we have started from a pretty good base. Eat lots, while climbing, keep up the energy (we use GU gels) and water. A lot of it is mental strength and determination though. I set myself small goals throughout the day, like the next rock! We also focus on the planning & strategy a lot – when to rest, when to climb, what to carry, how long to stay in one spot, time of day to climb, what gear, how to factor in illness. If you have the right gear and use it properly you shouldn’t be too cold!
Hi Paula & Steve, Thank you very much for your email and for the offer of sponsorship. We would very much like it if you could support the foundation that IMG are going to establish for Phinjo’s family. Without the Sherpas we wouldn’t be here – it’s that simple. We feel a great deal of debt to all the Sherpas, but particularly to Phinjo’s family. So if you can in any way no matter how small help his family that would be the best form of sponsorship we could get. Re other climbers: Is there any IMG climber in particular that you would like more info on?
Thanks Chuck for your comments. Its a lot of work (and fun), but your feedback makes it all worthwhile.
Hi Tim, We are running our own race a bit, often we are the only ones in camp.
Donavan, Yes it was 30 eggs – our entire supply up here. All that climbing made him hungry! (He went as far as the Lhotse face.)
Hi Monette, No results from the NASA tests. Not sure how accurate they are going to be, because I think I did my best up here at C2 as I had done the test several times before.
The Italian Climber: I saw a member of his team yesterday when we were climbing through the icefall. He is back in Italy, and doing well, however his vision is still very blurry.
Puja Ceremony: My very limited understanding is that it’s a ceremony performed by the Lama. In our case it was for safe climbing, but Mary also attended one which was for a good harvest.
What’s Gu: Gu is an energy gel we eat while climbing. It provides both slow and fast release energy, unlike lots of other snacks which just provide one or the other. They are very easy to digest, which is really important up here.
Golf Balls: No they are not normal golf balls; they are lighter and have holes in them.
MC, when we are all back in BC I’ll try and remember to ask Jack and Dan what they are taking. It’s a real concoction. Deb, Dan’s wife could probably enlighten everyone.
Steve, I don’t think IMG have ever had a bottle fail. They seem to be so safety conscious that I would guess that there will be extra oxygen available in reserve in the event of a bottle failure. They have provided us with as much oxygen as we want to practise on. I sat on oxygen for 2 hours at base camp practising (secretly I was hoping it might help my throat!). I think the larger Poisk bottles that climbers use weigh 4kg. My pack probably weighs 3 kg!
Hi Cathy great to hear from you.
Rita, definitely no dogs have summited Everest! Way too steep.
Jonathon, No we didn’t do any sports psychology training before we left – any suggestions?.
That’s all Folks,